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Ice Luge

Construction Plans on How To Build A More Advanced Version Of The Ever So Popular Ice Luge (or ice slide) Called The Internal Coil Ice Luge Exclusively for D r u n k A n t i c s visitors

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Drunk Antics Internal Coil Ice Luge Advantages Over The Traditional Ice Luge:
- Alcoholic liquids are able to travel over far more ice cold surface per size of the overall luge
- Alcoholic liquids don't get watered down.
- Can be prepared in your own freezer whereas equivalent ice luges which about 6 feet long have to be purchased commercially each time you want to use one.
- Easier to drink from the end whereas regular ice luges get too wide and rounded off at the end as they melt throughout the night
- Doesn't leave a watery mess afterwards.
- Quite simply a lot more cool looking.


What you will need:

Tools:
- Electric saw
- Pipe cutter, hack saw, or a blade for the electric saw suitable for metal
- Screw driver

Materials for Smaller Internal Coil Ice Luge:
- Copper tubing coil 3/8 or 1/2 inch diameter and 4-10 feet long depending on how large your Internal coil Ice Luge will be. Please note that if you decide to use plastic tubing instead that it won't conduct heat from the liquid to the ice as well. Another words it'll slightly insulate it.
- Plastic storgage bin, can be any size or shape you choose. Although preferably the largest your freezer can hold especially if you're planning a large party.
- Thin sheet of wood, length and width must be a little more than the width you decide to make the internal coil.
- standard silicone sealant.
- Pipe straps that are the size of the tubing you get. you'll need 2-3 of them for smaller projects
- Regular funnel (not a beer funnel) with a tip narrow enough to fit into the width of copper tubing
- Box of short screws, you may only need 6 for smaller coil Luges, must be shorter than the sheet of wood

Additional Materials for Larger Internal Coil Ice Luge:
- Metal tie angles
- 2 short sections of wood shorter than the height of the plastic bin, don't have to be very thick or wide.
- Additional pipe straps, 2 for every loop of the coil.
- Additional screws, enough for the tie angles and extra pipe straps.


Step 1. Trim the sheet of wood so that it's roughly 2/3rds the width and 2/3rds length of the plastic bin

Step 2. for larger plastic bins, attach the short lengths of wood with the tie angles to the sheet of wood at a 90 degree angle so that the wood lengths are at least an inch away from the outer edge of the sheet of wood. See diagram

Step 3. Shape the copper coil so that its width is a little smaller than the width/length of the sheet of wood. Larger bins, make the coil so that it's about the width of the outer edge of the wood lengths. Then shape the copper coil into a perfect coil shape with about 1 to 1.5 inch spacing between each turn of the tube. Leave enough length on the bottom end of the coil to reach 2 inches past one side of the plastic bin and enough length on the top end to reach about 5-6 inches past the other side of the bin. IMPORTANT: If there's excess tubing, have it so that the excess is on the top part of the coil so that after you cut it, nobody can cut their lip on the sawed edge being that poeple will drink it from the bottom part. Make the coil tall enough to go near the top of the plastic bin

Step 4. Position the coil on the wood assembly making sure that the ends of the coil can reach 2 inches past the sides of the plastic bin. Also make sure that the coil is shaped so that every part of it is on a consistent downward angle. Use thin shims on the bottom part to make sure the tube isn't level on the bottom.

Step 5. Attach the coil to the wood assembly using the pipe straps. Use about 2 or 3 on the bottom and (with larger luges) one for each time the tube passes the wood pieces on the side. Hold off on attaching the pipe straps closest to the ends so that the assemble will be easier to mount in the plastic bin.


Step 6. Next you'll be cutting 2 holes in the plastic bin. First on one side near the bottom, slightly lower than the thickness of the wood sheet. The second hole will be on the opposite side a little higher up than the height of the coil. Try to make the width of the holes as close to the width of the pipes as you can, preferable so that its a snug fit.

Step 7. Cover the bottom of the wood sheet with silicone sealant and then position it centered on the inside of the plastic bin so the ends of the tube line up with the holes. Then push the ends of the tube through the holes so that the bottom one comes out 2 inches and the top one comes out about 5-6 inches. Use more silicone to thoroughly seal the area around the holes. You may now attach the last pipe straps.

Step 8. Carefully bend the upper extruding tube so that it faces upward. This is where the funnel will go. Be sure to allow ample time for the silicone to dry before putting the Coil Luge into service.


Optional: You can also make it so that the block of ice can be removed from the plastic bin if you want the novelty of having an open ice block in the center of a party. To do this, don't make the holes in the plastic bin or route the tubes through them, cover the lower end of the tube with a cork or something similar during the freezing process. Don't apply the silicone to the bottom of the wood sheet. You'll then need to weight down the wood sheet with something small but heavy. Once you remove the frozen ice block assembly you'll have to chip away the ice at the bottom end of the tube.

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Feel free to send us pictures of your finished Internal Coil Ice Luge projects
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As well as any other content you'd like to submit.



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